Haircare and scalp-care formulas are moving beyond repair to target prevention. The latest ingredients to come from the labs at Givaudan Active Beauty and Croda Beauty are testimony to this trend.
Haircare brands continue to make the most of consumer interest in scalp wellness and the ‘skinification’ of the category with premium solutions targeting healthier hair from the root. Olaplex recently launched No.0.5 Scalp Longevity Treatment, designed to improve long-term scalp and hair health, while professional haircare brand Oribe rolled-out its Serene Scalp Densifying Collection, developed with New York hairstylist and trichologist Penny James. When it comes to the rapidly premiumizing anti-dandruff category, meanwhile, L’Oréal’s Vichy rounded off 2024 by extending its Vichy Dercos anti-dandruff brand to the US via the Amazon Premium Beauty store.
Consumer demand in scalp care
According to trichologist and cosmetologist Sophia Emmanuel, who is also Brand Ambassador for haircare label V&Co. Beauty, one of consumers’ key demands in 2025 is to stop itchy, flaky scalp conditions, such as psoriasis, seborrheic dermatitis, and dandruff. “In terms of ingredients, the scalp care category is focusing more on healing and repairing the skin, and balancing the scalp’s microbiome,” Emmanuel told Formes De Luxe. To this end, she anticipates increased use of skincare favorites like stem cells, peptides and postbiotics to repair skin, stimulate hair growth, and balance the scalp microbiome, respectively. Claims, said Emmanuel, “will be centered around ‘skincare for your scalp’, as more products will be focused on treating the scalp like the face and promoting regimented routines for the scalp just as we do for our skin.”
Vichy’s Dercos scalp-care offer ranges from shampoo and conditioner to a serum ©Vichy
Skincare-inspired ingredients to know
This appears to be what the supply industry is banking on too, if new launches for this month’s in-cosmetics Global (April 8-10) are an indication.
One of Givaudan Active Beauty’s launches for the expo is DandErase, a botanical active ingredient designed to eradicate dandruff and restore scalp health. Created via green fractionation of sustainably sourced Moroccan saffron (Crocus sativus L.), it addresses both the root causes and the symptoms of dandruff. Malassezia yeast is naturally present in the skin microbiota, but its environmentally induced disbalance can trigger the onset of the condition. DandErase selectively inhibits Malassezia, as well as reducing inflammation and erythema, mitigating itching and scalp discomfort, and restoring the barrier function of the scalp. It also balances the microbiome for a long-lasting anti-dandruff effect.
“Today’s consumers are more informed and discerning,” affirms Giada Maramaldi, Global Category Manager – Botanical Actives at Givaudan Active Beauty. “They demand products that not only address dandruff effectively, but also prioritize gentle formulations and sustainability, as well as microbiome stabilization.”
Skincare’s preventative mindset expands to haircare
Croda Beauty’s new active ingredient Sphingo’HAIR Drypure, meanwhile, is said to not only promote scalp health, but also the appearance and manageability of hair. Its mode of action relies on the similarity between the barrier structures of both. A bio fermentation-derived ceramide NP for hair and scalp skin, Sphingo’HAIR Drypure acts as a ‘cement’ in scalp barrier and hair barrier structures. It reinforces the skin’s barrier function; boosts scalp hydration to reduce scaling; maintains optimal hair fiber moisture balance; and smooths hair fiber cuticles to increase hair luster and manageability.
Pascaline Criton, Senior Marketing Lead – Communications at Croda Beauty, tells Formes De Luxe: “Consumers understand that a healthy scalp is the foundation for healthy hair. There is a growing demand for products that offer scalp care similar to the care provided to real skin—balancing the flora and microbiome, strengthening and caring for the skin barrier, protecting and preventing aging.”
And Sphingo’HAIR Drypure is not the only in-cosmetics Global launch from Croda Beauty. FibraShield C is the specialty chemical company’s attempt to bring skincare’s preventative mindset to haircare. According to Helene Hine, Global Insights and Innovation Manager for Hair at Croda Beauty: “The preventative mindset of skincare is now expanding into haircare. Consumers are increasingly focused on slow aging and promoting hair longevity.”
A protective multi-peptide derived from chickpeas, FibraShield C promises a 95% reduction in reactive oxygen species, reversing 20 days of UV-induced cuticle damage. It also reduces UV-induced cysteine oxidation in the cortex, safeguarding the hair’s internal structure.
With the haircare category continuing to look to skincare for inspiration, expect to see more ingredients targeting protection, barrier function and slow aging.
